A few weeks back, my second-born son, Jordan, and I loaded up our “guy gear” and headed seriously south. We stopped driving when the road ran out of pavement at the water’s edge, 90 miles north of Cuba. The southernmost point in the continental U.S. is quite a tourist attraction, so we got in line and waited 15 minutes to record the moment for posterity.
Frank and Jordan pose for a photograph at the southernmost point of the U.S.
My ultimate mission on this extreme run, a promised senior trip, was to introduce Jordan to Scuba and catch a tarpon. We got half the job done, but three jumps out of a 100-lb.+ tarpon is the fun part and unfortunately, the way most battles with this challenging fish end up. All in all, we had a wonderful time, didn’t get too sunburned and came home without any significant wounds or abrasions. Compared to some of the trips I’ve undertaken, that was a major accomplishment in itself.
Back when I was a young lad myself, in fact, almost the exact age of my son, I was enjoying the full benefits of a “government contract” exploring the far reaches of the globe, while handling thousands of pounds of high explosives and wondering what distinctive sound my next spark of static electricity might produce. The upside of my tenure with this fat “defense contract” took me to some great diving spots in the Philippines and Guam, with brief sorties to a coastal country called Viet Nam. While the Florida Keys lack the international intrigue of such exotic locations, there isn’t the exposure to opportunities that would have a marked impact of the fun side of the equation. Upon our arrival at John Pennecamp State Park, we were both anxious to taste the salt and wasted little time in making our way to the water. Pulling my mask over my face and slipping into the water off of Key Largo, I eased back in time and wondered to myself what this trip was going to teach me and my son. As I blew a mouthful of saltwater out of my snorkel the first fish that came into view was a small barracuda that was neither impressed with our arrival, nor persuaded to move elsewhere. The barracuda’s eyes were cold and calculating making it seem prudent to evaluate other opportunities of amusement.
We were anxious to record our dive with an inexpensive underwater camera.
The following morning, we were scheduled for what is termed a “resort dive” experience. This seemed like the best option for Jordan, since the cost of a dive certification was $600 and would have consumed all of our time in the Keys. The resort package is designed to introduce beginners to the sport. It involves some classroom time, introduction to diving in a nearby motel pool to familiarize you with the equipment, and two deep-water dives in the 30-40 foot range. The price of this program is $200, which is very reasonable considering that he might have not enjoyed the experience after the first certification dive. Bottom line, I can highly recommend the experience. Jordan thoroughly enjoyed the dives and despite my aborted second dive, due to nausea, I was transported back to the days of my youth. Concerned about the prediction of high seas, I took some motion sickness pills as a precaution and in hind sight probably should have avoided them. However, had I not taken the pills, there would have been numerous small fish that would have missed an expanded meal of Burger King Whopper chunks, sprayed in a slightly conical pattern.
In the final analysis, I truly missed the opportunity to experience Jordan’s second dive, but for the fish it was live and let live.
In Key West life is a party and the "needy" find ways to support their habits by amusing locals and entertaining the endless supply of tourists.
Key West was a trip in itself. I had never been all the way to the end, and also wanted Jordan to see the southernmost point of the U.S. I also wanted him to appreciate the history of the region and gave him a brief overview of Hemingway and the rich traditions of craziness in the Conch Republic. Unfortunately, I didn’t realize that the drive from Key Largo to Key West and back would take up most of the day, and into the evening hours. While the distance isn’t that far, about 90 miles, it takes much longer than normal to drive because of the numerous no passing zones, bridges and small towns where speed limits bottom out and locals peddle around on bikes. Key West is an experience that goes beyond the ordinary. So, if you have the opportunity; take it. Once we found a place to park, where our vehicle would not be towed, it was a curious tour that begged for a second lap. Shortly after we parked, we stumbled into a cigar roller’s studio, where a sign admonished visitors to pay for pictures. Jordan had his cell phone camera out, banging away, when I raised my eyebrows to the sign. We slipped out the side door, much to the chagrin of the rotund roller lady. Shortly down the road we came upon the apex of our mission, Hemingway’s hangout and the ultimate tourist trap – Sloppy Joe’s. Perched at the front door, proudly purveying his wares, proclaimed by a sign that read “Dirty Jokes $1.00, I need a beer”. I was taken with the sentiment, as well as the honesty, although I did not contribute to his ultimate mission. How can you fault a man who puts his cards on the table, so to speak? After a $6.00 beer and an $8.00 hamburger we were off to the northbound line of semi-stalled traffic and our cozy camper spot at John Pennecamp State Park.
The following day we were booked for an evening guide trip to catch a tarpon. Our tarpon guide proved to be more talk than production, but we were able to jump a tarpon three times before the line broke and in the annals of tarpon fishing experience most of the good was derived out of that trip. While we were patiently waiting for the next fish to make a presentation to, we were gifted with the beauty of several sea turtles passing, a shark or two and a drum that had to be over 300 pounds.
A boat drifts away from the shore, fully engaged in a battle with a tarpon as the last glow of the day dissolves into darkness.
Later, while fishing from the several bridges south of Key Largo, we were tantalized by over 50 very large tarpon. Although I had little expectation of landing a tarpon, the jump was the challenge. In the green depths of the passing current, we watched with fascination as large schools of tarpon moved gracefully in and out of the bridge piers, apparently not interested in feeding. They looked at our crabs and mullet presentations, but proved to be disinterested. As I looked at the rising moon, it occurred to me that the problem was, we were fishing on a full moon and feeding time was going to be late in the night when the tide turned and the forage base reached maximum flow. We reluctantly loaded our fishing gear, bid the sunset a fond goodbye and prepared to return to our nominal lives in what is generally termed the “real world”, but for my money, I would prefer to think of the keys as the real world, and our daily struggles as the things of distraction.
The experience we had with the resort dive was excellent. For more information on that element of the “Key’s experience”, contact http://www.quiescence.com/ you won’t be disappointed. Jordan said that he really enjoyed his experience, but for my money, it was beyond expectations, taking me back to the days when there was nothing that mattered but salt and sea, and all of the time spent away from that was considered a loss. Perhaps Jordan gathered some of that in his dive. Only time will tell. For me, it was a week that will be indelibly etched into my memory as one of the most important in my life, a time when I was able to share that which is most valuable with a son in whom I am well pleased.
As for my key chain of happiness, the Florida Keys will always be foremost on life’s ring. FR
Hey Man
Great article. It looks as though Jordan has gotton through those awkward teen years and has had time for some Father Son bonding, Congratulations!
Dave
Very well written Dad. Love the trip and very much enjoyed reading about it.
You made me envious, Thanks!
Very nicely done,it made me feel like is was with you,sign me up for the next trip.
I liked the blog, Frank. It did have a Hemingway flavor. If you like reading fiction, you might like an author named Tom Corcoran – his novels often take place in the keys. My only trip to the Keys was my first marriage – my new husband took me there on a combination honeymoon/funeral trip. His stepmother’s estranged father (whom my husband had never met) died and the “family” (consisting of several cousins and half brothers and step family) made a trip. Regardless of all that, I have a wonderful memory of colorful wooden houses, dirt roads, water so clear I could see tiny clown fish and those bright blue fish you only see in aquariums and salt water tanks. I will make a trip to Key West one day to erase the worst of that memory with a new love. But until then, I will enjoy your blog and the pictures!
suzie orren aka kc jarrett
Hey, what an awesome trip
Glad you are all enjoying life and are well…I have been praying for you and your family faithfully through the years…thanks for sharing that with all of us!!!!
Love and hugs Mith and Spirit
As you know, I also had the dive experance in the philippines probly with you. anyway, my wife and I along with my brother and his wife also did the snorkle thing at Pennecamp state park, we did the dive out of my brothers bass boat,and tided to the floats on the reef, the worse mistake we made was stop at Mkee Dees on the way there, we ended up being real popular with the fish after we swallowed some salt water, other than parking Key West is a hoot, espesicaly at night, we fished off 7 mile bridge [Marathon key] out of his boat and had lots of fun. hope you are successful with your new blog..
Hey Tom, I do remember that. In fact, I’ve got a photo of you, me and Jim Leopard with fins and masks on the beach at Subic Bay, somewhere. If only we (I) had realized what a special time that was, when we were there, and spent it more wisely. Recently, I was telling my kids about the monkeys that used to steal our donuts while we were standing at attention for roll call, and listening to the POD. Those were the days my friend!
FR: “Key West was a trip in itself. I had never been all the way to the end, and also wanted Jordan to see the southernmost point of the U.S.”
Hi Frank! Heidi (bssd mod) here.
Great blog post! I thoroughly enjoyed reading about your “male bonding experience” with your son. I hope to visit the Keys one of these days. I’ve been to Miami (for Cubs-Marlins playoff game) but not to the Keys.
I have to correct something you posted though (see quote above and under the picture you posted). I’ve been to the southernmost point in the United States; it’s in Ka Lae, Hawaii (aka “South Point”): http://www.discoveramerica.com/ca/hawaii/big-isl-ka-lae-(south-point).html
Don’t want to forget about Hawaii – the 2nd most awesome state – after Alaska, of course!
Looking forward to more posts from you.
P.S. I should mention… I just moved to Del Rio, TX and have Lake Amistad in my backyard – the best bass fishing lake in the world!
Hi Heidi,
Point well taken. I should have said, contiguous, or continental U.S. I wouldn’t want to offend any of our Hawaiian friends; another great place for a dive! Wow, Del Rio, TX. Not a good place to dive, but probably a lot of noodling for catfish, if you’re into that sort of foolishness. As for myself, I’m not Bubba enough for that one. Booyah for those that are, but I’ll stay in the boat and offer encouragement or pass the beer! I’ve not fished that state for bass, or anything else for that matter. I’ll have to expand my horizons.
Hi Frank, I thoroughly enjoyed your article. Reminded me of trips we took the kids on all around the US. But most of all it brought back a memory of my own. I use to spend my summers in Florida with my Mother’s sister(favorite Aunt and Uncle). My uncle travel working in the state. My aunt and I would leave on Fridays to meet up with my uncle for the weekend. My fondest memory was when he was in Key West. This was back in the mid to late 50′s. Back then the road ran right out into the Gulf with a STOP sign standing in the water at the end of the pavement. To this day I still have dreams(nightmares) of driving right off into the water trying to get to the other side. Little did I know that was Cuba. I see by your picture and from others that there is a wall of some sort at the end of Hwy 1. Guess maybe someone finally ran the STOP sign.
Keep us informed of all your goings and comings.
Wanda
Frank, you guys are looking great in the photo. Looks way better than out here in the High Plains Desert. Hope all is well for you and the family. We will see along the way somewhere.
Frank– no one has ever said you can’t write– you can, and I might say very well
What a great life experience! I throughly enjoyed the reading.
Sounds like a trip that Duane and Eric would throughly enjoy!
Duane spent 6 months in Thailand where he lived in the water!
Great story, Frank!!! I am jealous of the time on the water and fishing… Glad for you and Jordan to have such a great time together…. I knew it would happen… He is faithful! We all love you guys and it is good to see you together in such great pictures and places.
Well Bro you have not lost your touch. While reading this story I find myself wondering why you have not done more writing…..
JT, I appreciate your kind words. I’ve often lamented my personal lack of dedication to the keyboard and the ease with which I am distracted from the scent trail. I wrote for Cabela’s every day for seven years and you’ll find most of that on my outdoor information site: http://frank-ross-outdoor-info.com. Sorry for the shameless plug, but I’m passing the cup as discretely as possible while feigning a token effort at observing conventional proprieties which scorn blatant commercialism.
Prior to that I did a ton of writing, groveling for dollars in the sponsorship game. That said, none of what I’ve put to pen during either stint can be deemed great literature. I’ve “settled” too many times and sold out for the all-mighty dollar, forsaking the words that rattle around in my head, in want of a place to call home; food and shelter for my family.
Now, we’re at that point in time lamented in the historical melodrama which opined, “Like sand through the hourglass of time, such are the days of our lives.”
Great article. Thanks for the great resource.
Frank, Wow, great article. I took one of my daughters to the keys two summers ago – we kayaked and snorkeled. Great snorkeling at Bahia Honda – I’ll have to try the “resort dive” option – I have a friend who is a dive instructor but I’ve never taken her up on her offers to get me certified. Now that you don’t write for Cabela’s anymore, maybe we’ll have a few more stories like Dishwater Gals. Your writing tells true stories – a rarity these days. Linda
Hi Linda, thanks for your kind words. It was a great experience seeing my son experience the things that I loved to do when I was his age. I’m sure you had a similar experience with your daughter. I was fortunate enough to have the opportunity to dive in the Philippines and Guam when I was in the Navy, and have hooked back up with my old diving buddy from those days. The bond that is created by salt and sand lasts a lifetime and will continue to call you back. I’m thinking it’s time for me to take my own daughters down for a dip.
Elbert is one of my favorite characters. I have a few more of those in the hopper. Glad you enjoyed it. I was going to give you a link to another favorite but I see there is no link to it. Perhaps I have not posted it. I’ll resolve that problem and give you a link. Mr. Emery Trask was a great influence in my life, as was the time that I was able to be in his camp.
Thanks for visiting, and please do come back. FR
Linda, got that article posted. Give it a try. FR
http://www.frank-ross-outdoor-info.com/hunting/camp_recollections.php